Electrical Checks

I chose to go ahead and check out the electrical system prior to getting all the head, visit web tail and turn lights connected.  So, anorexia I went ahead and connected the battery ground and the positive cables.

Immediately I got some backlighting on some gauges – not a good thing.  Steve and I pondered this – I couldn’t explain why I would have lights on without the key being turned on.  Steve commented about the headlight switch.  I had not replace the control shaft so decided to put that back in.  When I snapped it in, it stopped at an “on” position.  Problem identified.  Once I pushed the control arm in to the off position, the gauge lighting turned off.  Great!!  Continue reading

Battery, Cable, Fuel Pump, Gauges, Ground strap, heater-defroster, Indicator lights, Starter, Uncategorized, Wiper motor

Gauges, Switches and Plugs

Now that the dash and extension are covered and cut, pestilence
I can start to install the gauges, switches, lights, etc. This was fairly straightforward as I had already determined my layout.

My main concern was whether they all would fit through the openings with padding and vinyl.  Fortunately, they all fit – some a bit tighter than others – but all were installed.  This included installing the heater vents and accessory socket in the dash extension.

Continue reading

Accessory plug, Dash, Gauges, Heater vents, heater-defroster, Indicator lights, Switches, Wiring harness

Dash, Gauges and More

The next major milestone to reach will be the electrical checks.  To get there, practitioner
lots of work needs to be done to complete the dash build and installing, complete wiring and be prepared to connect the battery.  First, though I did a couple of quick fixes.  The transmission seal at the drive what was leaking so I purchased a new one and replaced that.  Second, the radiator did not line up correctly when we installed it due to the size of the mounting bracket.  I decided to cut off a portion of the bracket, and by doing this could re-drill mount holes and position the radiator as per the manual.

Next, I attached a firewall extension behind where the dash will sit.  Next, we moved on to the emergency brake.  This required assembling the mechanism and then installing it on the chassis tunnel.

Then, I ran the brake cables and attached them to the rear calipers, connected the cable ends into cable captures at the brake handle, and adjusted tension to complete the job.  Later I will need to install the cockpit aluminum so will remove the brake and then re-install.  I did this to keep the chassis more accessible when I do the electrical checks. Continue reading

Accessory plug, Aluminum Panels, Cable, Dash, Fuel tank, Gauges, heater-defroster, Rear axle, Rear Brakes, Stereo, Switches

Clutch and Throttle Cable and Engine Wiring

The next major milestone to reach will be the electrical checks.  To get there, practitioner
lots of work needs to be done to complete the dash build and installing, complete wiring and be prepared to connect the battery.  First, though I did a couple of quick fixes.  The transmission seal at the drive what was leaking so I purchased a new one and replaced that.  Second, the radiator did not line up correctly when we installed it due to the size of the mounting bracket.  I decided to cut off a portion of the bracket, and by doing this could re-drill mount holes and position the radiator as per the manual.

Next, I attached a firewall extension behind where the dash will sit.  Next, we moved on to the emergency brake.  This required assembling the mechanism and then installing it on the chassis tunnel.

Then, I ran the brake cables and attached them to the rear calipers, connected the cable ends into cable captures at the brake handle, and adjusted tension to complete the job.  Later I will need to install the cockpit aluminum so will remove the brake and then re-install.  I did this to keep the chassis more accessible when I do the electrical checks. Continue reading

Accelerator Pedal, Brake Pedal, Cable, Clutch Pedal, Ignition, Uncategorized, Wiring harness

More Progress on Engine and Next Steps

We are getting close to installing the engine and transmission, human enhancement
so I will need to do some pre-work that is necessary as well as some other items that were just to fill time until I can get the help I need to do the installation.  The items that were completed include the following:

1. Passenger footbox needed to be permanently mounted, denture
so I removed the panels and polished them.  Then I re-installed them using silicone and rivets.

2. Added some insulated clips to help support the fuel line

3. Adjusted the front tire alignment a little bit to make it easier to roll the chassis into place for the engine install.  Continue reading

Accelerator Pedal, Aluminum Panels, Battery, Cable, Drive Shaft, Engine, Footbox, Fuel System, Headers, J pipes, Oil relocation, Rear end, Transmission

Engine and Transmission are In!!!

We are getting close to installing the engine and transmission, human enhancement
so I will need to do some pre-work that is necessary as well as some other items that were just to fill time until I can get the help I need to do the installation.  The items that were completed include the following:

1. Passenger footbox needed to be permanently mounted, denture
so I removed the panels and polished them.  Then I re-installed them using silicone and rivets.

2. Added some insulated clips to help support the fuel line

3. Adjusted the front tire alignment a little bit to make it easier to roll the chassis into place for the engine install.  Continue reading

EFI, Engine, Ground strap

Pre-work for Engine-Transmission Install

When the steering rack was completed, more
we noticed that we could not tighten the tie rods enough on the threaded rod ends of the steering rack to get the front end close to being aligned.  So, we had to remove the tie rods so we could cut off a piece from each threaded rod.  I needed to purchase a tie rod removing pry tool to do this, which made the job pretty easy.  Unfortunately, it also damaged the grease boots, so I had to also purchase a new pair of those.  Once we cut off ~1″ of the threaded rods there was enough adjustment to get the front aligned.  The parts were then reassembled.


When the steering rack was completed, more
we noticed that we could not tighten the tie rods enough on the threaded rod ends of the steering rack to get the front end close to being aligned.  So, we had to remove the tie rods so we could cut off a piece from each threaded rod.  I needed to purchase a tie rod removing pry tool to do this, which made the job pretty easy.  Unfortunately, it also damaged the grease boots, so I had to also purchase a new pair of those.  Once we cut off ~1″ of the threaded rods there was enough adjustment to get the front aligned.  The parts were then reassembled.


Now it was time to move into the installation of the fuel lines.  I read up on the information that came with my EFI system, information pills
and had to do some follow-up to determine the correct way to proceed.  First, erectile
I had to determine if I needed a pre-filter.  After talking with Professional Products, I determined I did not need the pre-filter.  I also learned some specifics of how and where to mount the fuel pump, and determined that I needed to use 3/8″ fuel lines, at least on the delivery side.  The kit came with 5/16″ as the largest tube size.  Plus, the fittings on the EFI supplied fuel pump and fuel filter were different than those that came with the kit.

I did a lot of research and went to parts stores and spent a lot of thought trying to figure out which way to go.  Because of the specifics of the parts supplied with the EFI, which included NPT threads I chose to purchase a fuel line and return line kit from Summit Racing.  This is also made by Professional Products and supplies enough braided 3/8″ fuel line and fittings to get me supply and return lines and the needed hook-ups.  I did have to also purchase two additional fittings for the fuel tank pick-up, since they are “fuel-rail” type fittings.

Next came the process of determining where to mount the fuel pump and filter. Continue reading

Aluminum Panels, Engine, Fuel Filter, Fuel Pump, Fuel System, Ground strap, Ignition, Oil relocation, Starter, Starter index plate, Transmission, Wiper motor

Battery Box and Trunk Aluminum

My next area was in the trunk.  I chose to purchase a battery box to install in the trunk area.  The base kit has the battery mounted on the upper trunk floor.  The aftermarket part allows the battery to be located beneath the floor, more about
remedy freeing up trunk space as well as creating a cleaner look.

I attached a mounting brace to the box, and then tried to fit it into the opening.  Unfortunately, the support was too long, so I had to do quite a bit of cutting and grinding to get it to fit.  Once this was done, I started riveting the box to the chassis support frame and then bolted the support brace.  With the box in place, I could then begin fitting up the trunk aluminum.

For the most part this was fairly straightforward.  Continue reading

Aluminum Panels, Battery, Battery Box, Cable, Carpet, Insulation, Trunk, Wiring harness

Wiring Harness

I began the process of getting the wiring harness in place.  This meant getting the various harness pieces and running them to the proper locations.

I began by attaching a mounting plate to the fuse panel, misbirth
buy which is attached to the main harness.  This was then installed under the dash area in the driver footbox.   In order to make the panel fit, treatment
I had to cut out a piece of the mounting plate so it could slip around one of the pedal box mounting bolts.

Once I had made the cutout, the panel fit into position.

Next came the process of physically pulling the wiring where it was needed. Continue reading

Cable, EFI, Engine, Fuel Pump, fuel pump pick-up, Ignition, Starter, Uncategorized, Wiring harness

Brake Lines

When the steering rack was completed, more
we noticed that we could not tighten the tie rods enough on the threaded rod ends of the steering rack to get the front end close to being aligned.  So, we had to remove the tie rods so we could cut off a piece from each threaded rod.  I needed to purchase a tie rod removing pry tool to do this, which made the job pretty easy.  Unfortunately, it also damaged the grease boots, so I had to also purchase a new pair of those.  Once we cut off ~1″ of the threaded rods there was enough adjustment to get the front aligned.  The parts were then reassembled.


When the steering rack was completed, more
we noticed that we could not tighten the tie rods enough on the threaded rod ends of the steering rack to get the front end close to being aligned.  So, we had to remove the tie rods so we could cut off a piece from each threaded rod.  I needed to purchase a tie rod removing pry tool to do this, which made the job pretty easy.  Unfortunately, it also damaged the grease boots, so I had to also purchase a new pair of those.  Once we cut off ~1″ of the threaded rods there was enough adjustment to get the front aligned.  The parts were then reassembled.


Now it was time to move into the installation of the fuel lines.  I read up on the information that came with my EFI system, information pills
and had to do some follow-up to determine the correct way to proceed.  First, erectile
I had to determine if I needed a pre-filter.  After talking with Professional Products, I determined I did not need the pre-filter.  I also learned some specifics of how and where to mount the fuel pump, and determined that I needed to use 3/8″ fuel lines, at least on the delivery side.  The kit came with 5/16″ as the largest tube size.  Plus, the fittings on the EFI supplied fuel pump and fuel filter were different than those that came with the kit.

I did a lot of research and went to parts stores and spent a lot of thought trying to figure out which way to go.  Because of the specifics of the parts supplied with the EFI, which included NPT threads I chose to purchase a fuel line and return line kit from Summit Racing.  This is also made by Professional Products and supplies enough braided 3/8″ fuel line and fittings to get me supply and return lines and the needed hook-ups.  I did have to also purchase two additional fittings for the fuel tank pick-up, since they are “fuel-rail” type fittings.

Next came the process of determining where to mount the fuel pump and filter. Continue reading

Brake reservoir, Flaring Tool, Front brakes, Master Cylinder, Rear Brakes